The restaurant’s actually calledRussian House #1, and it is “culture center of a consciousness revolution,” as its website puts it. When we walk in, there’s a long table with premade salads, and a stunning blonde woman with a thick Russian accent asks, “Are you familiar with our concept?”
The concept, in short, is that the restaurant always has a bunch of Russian food, and you can always come and eat it, and you pay what you’re able. It practices radical business transparency — its daily budget is posted next to the door — and the current offerings include persimmons, borscht, duck, and old-world goblets of kvass, which tastes like prune juice, only richer.
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